Ierapetra is the largest town on Crete's south coast and the southernmost in Europe, set on a wide bay that faces directly toward the African coast. The position gives it more sun than any other part of Crete, with a long beach-going season that stretches from early spring well into October. The town itself is workaday rather than picture-postcard, but the seafront promenade is long and lively, the old town has a real Cretan feel, and the surrounding coastline is dotted with quiet beaches and an offshore island visible from the harbour.

At the heart of town, the Venetian Kales Fortress guards the small fishing harbour, with a cluster of fish tavernas, a few atmospheric coffee houses and a small archaeological museum just behind. The old quarter winds in pastel-painted lanes up from the seafront, with the so-called house of Napoleon, who is said to have stopped here on his way to Egypt, tucked into the labyrinth. The newer part of town spreads east along the bay, with a paved promenade, palm trees, cafe terraces and a town beach that runs for kilometres.

Ierapetra is the gateway to Crete's south-east coast and a base that suits travellers wanting warm water, quiet beaches and a side of real Cretan life. Expect apartments, family-run hotels, a small group of beachfront resort suites and a growing scene of stylish boutique stays in the old town and along the coast. East of the town the coastline turns into a string of low-key resorts at Koutsounari and Ferma, ideal for families looking for sand, calm seas and good value.