Sitia is the easternmost town of any size on Crete, a relaxed harbour built on a wide bay where the central plain of Lasithi runs out toward the Aegean. Where the rest of Crete's north coast can feel busy in summer, Sitia stays low-key: a small port, a few seafront streets, a long sandy beach inside town, and a pace of life that is closer to the way Crete felt 30 years ago. For travellers willing to drive a little further east, it is a rewarding base for exploring some of the island's most striking and least crowded landscapes.
The town spreads up a low hillside from the port, with a Venetian fortress, the Kazarma, watching over the bay. The seafront is lined with palm trees, fishing boats, traditional kafenia and a parade of fish tavernas that fill up with locals as much as visitors. Behind, narrow lanes climb past whitewashed houses and small archaeological museum that holds finds from the nearby Minoan site of Petras. The atmosphere is firmly Cretan rather than tourist-driven.
The real reward, though, lies in what is around Sitia. The palm grove and golden sand at Vai is a 25-minute drive east, the Minoan palace of Kato Zakros and its gorge are the wildest archaeological site on the island, and the village of Mochlos with its tiny offshore islet is a short drive west. Sitia also produces some of the best olive oil in Greece, with co-operatives in surrounding villages open for tastings. Expect mostly small family-run hotels, beachfront apartments and a few stylish boutique stays.



